Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Aeolian islands "The Most Visited Islands In European Region"


The Aeolian islands (Isole Eolie) are a group of attractive islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea about 25-50km north of Sicily in Italy. Formerly off the beaten track, this diverse group of volcanic islands is becoming more popular and can be very busy during July and August.


Lipari



Lipari is the largest and most populous of the Aeolian Islands of Italy. It is the primary transportation gateway for the Aeolians, and has some attractions of its own.

Getting In

Primary access is by boat. The hydrofoil and ferry operators SIREMAR, Ustica Lines, and NGI all connect Lipari to other points in the Aeolian Islands and to Sicily and the mainland. If you're not bringing a vehicle, try to board a hydrofoil; they're significantly quicker than the ferries, and generally quite comfortable.

Air Panarea offers helicopter flights to Lipari on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays during the summer. However, they're expensive and don't save much time compared to the hydrofoils.

Trekking

The Island of Lipari is ideal for trekking. There are many routes on the island from easy to hard level. The level of difficulty depends on the season. Some tracks are very hard or almost impossible to follow during summer because of the heat. There are maps to be bought on Lipari but one has to ask local people to find some of the tracks.

A short walk downhill can be done on the road from Quattropani to Acquacalda on the north side of Lipari. This can be done even during summer and takes about 45 minutes. You enjoy the view of Salina and the northern Aeolian islands during this walk. From the Old Kaolin Mine between Pianoconte and Quattropani it is possible to walk to the thermal bath of San Calogero or to the village of Quattropani. Downhill near the sea there is the ruin of a Saracen tower and fifthy meters away it is possible to walk down on the black clifs for a bath. Do these to walks during springtime. From Marina Corta there is a track up to Monte Gallina and Monte della Guardia. You reach the west side of the island and will enjoy the two Faraglioni from upside. You are able to reach the street that takes you from the vulcanologic observatory in front of Vulcano, back to Lipari town. You should do this hike late afternoon during summer. During afternoon in summer you can also make a walk from the church of Santa Lucia in Lipari to Valle Muria, the beach on the west side of Lipari.


The Museo Archeological Regionale Eoliano
The Museo Archeological Regionale Eoliano is world-renowned for its excellent exhibits, especially its Neolithic collection. The Prehistoric Section with Neolithic and Bronze Age exhibits is located just south of the cathedral in the 18th-century former Palazzo Vescovile (bishop’s palace). Also housed here are materials from the classical and Hellenic periods, including lustrous red ceramics in the Diana style. The Aeolian Section is housed next to this building and includes artifacts from sites throughout the archipelago. In a pavilion north of the cathedral is a section on Milazzo archaeology and the interesting Marine Archaeology Section, which contains artifacts from wrecks discovered off of the Aeolian Islands. The Vulcanological Section gives information about the unique geological history of the islands as well as the impact of man. Also in the museum is a large collection (about 1200!) of theatrical masks found in 3rd and 4th century B.C. tombs. The masks range from gruesome to entertaining. The museum is located in the upper town and is open daily from 9am to 1:30pm and 3 to 7pm (tel. 090-9880174).

Canneto Beach
Canneto can be reached by a 30-minute walk or short bus ride from Marina Lunga in Lipari town. Tickets can be purchased at a small shop by the bus stop for 1.30 euros. Located just north of Lipari town on the island’s east coast, Canneto is the most popular beach on Lipari. The small crescent of black volcanic sand beach is flanked by lush green mountain slopes. The gentle water is ideal for swimming. A dip here is an interesting experience; the crystal-clear water becomes deep fairly quickly, although one’s depth perception is somewhat altered due to the dark sand and pebbles. Pieces of pumice stone float along the coast from the islands pumice deposits, which stretch along the eastern and northern coasts covering 8.4 square kilometers. This coastline can be seen in the Taviani brothers’ film Kaos. Spiagga Bianca, a gray sand beach just north of Canneto, can be reached by a short waterfront road and staircase along a narrow path.
Faraglioni

What you must do during summer is to dive or snorkle at the Faraglioni. The water is crystal clear and swim in such water is something very special. But you must be careful with the currents.

During autumn, winter and especially during spring, trekking on Lipari gives unforgettable experiences. The Faraglioni photo was taken during such a spring day walk

Scooter and vehicle rentals are available for hire near the waterfront. A drive around the island can be quite pleasant - visiting the pumice quarry, other towns, beaches and lookoff points.

Vulcano

Vulcano is one of the Aeolian Islands. Famous for its mud baths, the island literally smells like rotten eggs (sulfur). Odor or no odor, it's an interesting place to visit for the traveler interested in geology and hiking, not to mention soaking in some rays on the beaches.

Getting In

Primary access is by boat. The hydrofoil and ferry operators SIREMAR, Ustica Lines, and NGI all connect Vulcano to other points in the Aeolian Islands and to Sicily and the mainland. Access from Milazzo in Sicily is convenient, as Vulcano is the boats' first stop from there as they proceed to the other islands. If you're not bringing a vehicle (there's really not much need for one), try to board a hydrofoil; they're significantly quicker than the ferries, and generally quite comfortable.

Air Panarea offers helicopter flights to Vulcano on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays during the summer. However, they're expensive and don't save much time compared to the hydrofoils.

Get around

It's a small island, and essentially all points of interest to the visitor can be reached quickly by foot from the dock area. Moped rentals may be available. Do not expect to get much value out of a full-size car, if for some reason you bring one via ferry; most of the island's roads are sized for a golf cart or similar conveyance.

Do

  • Laghetto di Fanghi is a celebrated "mud bath" close to the dock. A small fee (entrance €2, shower €1) is charged to enter this area, which is based on natural hot springs both inland and in shallow offshore waters. Bathers use the former to cover themselves in mud (reputed to have therapeutic powers) and then go into the spring-warmed sea to wash off. Swimsuits are not optional here, and it's a good idea to use a suit that you won't be wearing in more conventional settings for a while (and that you can bag in some airtight container after use), as a sulfurous odor will continue to emanate from the suit for some time after you exit the baths.
  • If you're a hiker, the trail to Fossa, the recently (~1890) active volcanic center, should not be missed. The round trip takes about 3 hours from the dock area and involves the gain of about 1300 feet of elevation. Several alternative routes exist once you've reached the top of the cone. The fumarole field on the west side of the crater (Gran Cratere) is fascinating if you can stand the smell (it's one of the few places on the earth's surface where you can view droplets of molten sulfur), but is best avoided if you have respiratory problems.

Panarea is one of Italy's Aeolian Islands, off the coast of Sicily.

Get in

Panarea is reached by boats from Lipari, largest of the Aeolians. The SIREMAR line offers fast hydrofoils, which are preferable to slower ferries, particularly since you'll have no need for a car. Ferry lines to the Aeolian Islands depart from Milazzo (the closest to the islands, but most difficult to reach), Messina, and Palermo in Sicily, as well as Reggio di Calabria and Naples on the mainland. For international travelers, the most direct route is to fly to Catania, Sicily, transfer to an express bus to Milazzo, from where the most ferries run. As an alternative to the bus, Europcar offers a special deal to rent a car one-way between Catania and Milazzo, but this must be arranged for in advance.

Get around

The island is so small that there are no roads, but only paths. There are no cars on the islands, but only motorbikes, 3-wheeled trucks, and golf carts. There is a golf cart "taxi service" that runs between the port and all points in the only town, but for those who can walk up a hill, all points in the town are accessible by foot.

See

  • Panarea has two small, rocky but scenic beaches, which offer views across the sea to the volcano-island of Stromboli; you can see ash and steam clouds from the volcano's frequent, small eruptions.
  • Footpaths and hiking trails circle the island. The prehistoric ruins at the southern tip of the island at Punta Milazzese make a fine destination at sunrise.

Do

  • If a hiker, check out the Bronze Age ruins a short-to-medium (5-km round trip) walk from the dock, at the entrance to a nature reserve. No amenities, and the ruins are largely unexcavated; you'll be reminded more of the austere sites of the American Southwest than of the glories of Rome.
  • Rent a small boat in the port and make a tour around the island, but be aware that the currents at the northern and southern tips of Panarea are strong. Or, go across the sea to the islet of Basiluzzo, or the nearer islets of Lisca Bianca and Lisca Nera, all of which offer inlets to drop anchor and enjoy the fine clear water.

Stromboli
The island of Stromboli is little more than just the 900 m high volcano itself and thus has a very small size of only 12.6 square kilometres. Two kilometres northeast of Stromboli is the small, uninhabited sister island

Getting In

Access is by boat, there being no place on the island to put an airport. The hydrofoil and ferry operators SIREMAR, Ustica Lines, and NGI all connect Stromboli village and Ginostra to other points in the Aeolian Islands and to Sicily and the mainland. You may have to change boats in Lipari. Don't even think of bringing a full-sized car with you, as you'll have no place to use it. Consequently, it's highly advantageous to ride the fast hydrofoil rather than a ferry.

Get around

Due to the size of the island and lacking streets, neither cars nor buses or trains exist. The only available means of transport are "ape-cars", small motorbikes and boats. The only other way to move around the island is by walking. Note that there are no streetlights in either village, and if you're out after dark, you'll be well advised to use a flashlight.

Most visitors to the island come to climb (or at least hike on) Stromboli Volcano. However, other opportunities for outdoor recreation exist.

  • Stromboli Volcano. This continuously active volcano is one of the few in the world where a visitor can see an eruption "up close and personal," yet in relative safety -- most of the time. However, conditions vary from year to year, and the summit region may be closed (as it was during spring-summer 2007) owing to unusual activity posing hazards to the climber. In most conditions you can hike unaccompanied to an elevation of 400 meters, but beyond this level you will need a guide. A reliable guide service is Magmatrek, Via Vittorio Emanuele, +39 090 9865768, but there are other guide services in town that are also satisfactory. Don't climb without a guide; the access limitations are enforced (sporadically) and fines are substantial.
  • Take a boat ride around the island. The picturesque little village of Ginostra is on the opposite side of the island from Stromboli town and is only reachable by boat. Outfitters near the harbor in Stromboli town offer rides, which can usually be arranged on site.
  • Scuba diving is possible at the small island of Strombolicchio, offshore from Stromboli town. The water is very clear, and you can see the continuation of the volcanic plug comprising Strombolicchio far below the surface. Dry-land activities on Strombolicchio are generally not allowed as the island is a nature preserve. Lighthouse on top.

Museo Eoliano



There are two buildings, one containing pre-classical remains, from stone to bronze to iron, and the other containing the classical section. Both are laid out very well indeed and finds from the Sicilian mainland can be seen as well as those from the islands. It was a far better museum than I could have envisioned finding on what is actually quite a small island.


St. Bartholomew Cathedral
Founded and built by Roger the Norman as a Benedictine monastery, the church was destroyed by the pirate Barbarossa in 1544. The present-day baroque façade was part of the reconstruction around 1761. Inside the northern transept of the cathedral is a silver statue of Saint Bartholomew, which, dates from 1728. The remains of the old monastery, with its three sides and interior courtyard, can also be visited. Its columns were constructed from remains of classical temples that were destroyed during the Arab invasion of 838 A.D., giving each one its own unique style and diameter. There is no admission fee and the church is open daily from 9am to 1pm.


Voyage to Lípari via Vulcano

Aliscafi have a depressing effect on me. I suppose it is being expected to sit still - it seems a bit dehumanising. Here the natural scenery is so powerfully evocative that it overcomes any feelings of this sort, though given the time I should prefer the ordinary navi {boats}.

Vulcano is a dying volcano - it being possible to walk safely right up to the crater. Puffs of smoke still come up but nothing dramatic. I was not tempted to get off, even though it would have given me more time on shore.

So to Lípari, which probably attracts more visitors than any other island. It is very scenic with the harbour lying in a steep-sided cove. Buses run both ways around the perimeter of the island and there are a few miles which can be walked between the two termini. Going up the main road steeply you come to a long flight of steps to the right. If this seems daunting, as it did to me, it is possible to get to the same point by continuing up the hill a bit further before going right. One way or the other it is a good place to go, because it leads to the excellent archaeological museum and the largest church on the island. The views back over the harbour are something else.

Transportations

There are frequent car ferries and much quicker hydrofoils from Milazzo and Messina on Sicily , and from Reggio di Calabria on the mainland, to and between the islands. Most call first at Lipari, and then proceed to the other islands. Ferries are frequent in summer, with fewer during spring, autumn and winter and a reduced service year-round on Sundays. For timetables see SIREMAR , Ustica Lines and NGI. It is important to check the timetables in advance, and to allow plenty of time for connections, as boats can be early or late.

A few car ferries a week also continue on to Naples (see SNAV) and during the summer hydrofoils run to and from Naples, Cefalù, Palermo and Messina.

The Aeolian Islands are quite remote, which is part of their appeal. No air travel is available to the archipelago, except for the very expensive helicopter service which runs during high season from the Catania airport. For more information see Air Panarea. Most international travellers, then, will arrive at the airport of either Palermo or Catania airport in Sicily, or Reggio di Calabria, across the straits of Messina on the mainland.

Although the Reggio airport is relatively near the port, boats from Reggio are infrequent. Likewise, only a few ferries per day run from Palermo during high season, and the airport is far from the city. These ports are best used by the traveller who is already in Italy, as is Naples, a much longer boat trip that is convenient for travelers arriving by plane or train in Naples from points north. For the traveller arriving directly from abroad, numerous budget airlines have routes from around Europe to Catania. From there, one can take the train, or an express bus, to Messina, connecting to a boat; or, at Messina, one can connect to a second train or bus to Milazzo, which has by far the most boat departures. Although it is convenient to change trains in Messina, the Milazzo train station is a few miles from the port. On the other hand, the bus from Catania arrives at the train station, while the bus for Milazzo departs from a separate bus station a few blocks away. As for help at the information booth outside the train station. One express bus per day departs from Catania airport for Milazzo, but arrives there so late as to miss the boat for certain of the islands. One may wish to spend the first night in Lipari, with its charming town, and then depart for the outlying islands. As another alternative, the car rental agencies have special deals allowing the traveller the use of a car one-way from Catania to Milazzo - inquire in advance as these deals may not be available without reservations. The car rental agencies in Milazzo are a few blocks from the port.

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